Get To Know Your Monstera Deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant)

We sat down with a horticulturist to demystify everybody's favorite plant.

Monstera is native to the forests of Southern Mexico, where its rope-like aerial roots can be found climbing high up in the tree canopy. In the wild, its large, perforated leaves can reach over three feet in diameter. Though, we’d venture to guess you’re more likely to find it in your friend’s living room.

This tropical foliage plant’s curiously shaped holes have earned it the nickname “Swiss Cheese Plant,” and if you do your best to mimic its native jungle environment, you should have little trouble maintaining a healthy Monstera.

We pinged our horticulturist for some Monstera care tips and advice, and to ask when we might see the elusive “Mexican Breadfruit” it produces under the right conditions.

The basics:
SUN: Monstera craves a balance of sun and shade, so indirect sunlight is best. We recommend an Eastern exposure in the home, and rotating the plant regularly to ensure even growth.

WATER: Evenly water your Monstera about once a week, waiting till the soil is fairly dry before watering it again. Remember: in the jungle, this plant experiences both wet and dry seasons, and its roots need air as much as they need water.

FERTILIZER: Use it. Monstera’s big leaves drink up nutrients quickly, and it definitely benefits from a slow-release fertilizer (more on that below).

SPACE: More is more. Instead of tucking yours into a corner or balancing it on a windowsill, lend it some prime real estate in your living space and watch it thrive.

SUPPORT: Consider adding a small trellis or pole to your Monstera’s pot. Just like it latches onto other plants in the wild, it might appreciate a little support as it grows bigger in your home.



Now, onto the good stuff…

Question: What’s the story behind Monstera’s “swiss cheese” holes?

Timothy Heslop: “To my understanding, the shape of Monstera leaves was an evolutionary environmental response in the same vein as many palmate, pinnate, and deeply lobed leaves. Factors such as wind, heavy rains, and light access over time alter the shape of leaves to benefit the plant's survival. In the case of Monstera, a vining understory plant, it will climb large trees to gain access to higher light levels. The holes in the leaves are believed to both allow heavy rains and forest debris (such as branches and small leaves) from damaging or collecting on these large leaves.

Another theory is that the holes allow more light to pass through so it doesn’t shade itself out essentially. This is also why we only see these perforations on mature foliage and not on young plants.”

Q: I read that if given too little sun, Monstera will exhibit something called “negative phototropism.” Can you share a little more about this adaptation?

TH: “I would alter this statement slightly in that all photosynthetic plants experience phototropism at all times. Phototropism is not noticeable under a plant's ideal conditions, it just looks like the plant is growing in its natural habit. Monstera is evolutionarily an understory plant, so its leaves are not suited to withstand full sun in lowland tropical environments where it is also facing excessive heat (the leaves will burn).

If Monstera is exposed to excessive light and heat, it is likely going to retreat into shadier conditions where it can transpire less stressfully. This is not going to be the case at all times but is a fair rule of thumb. This mechanism is a fairly complicated one that begins on the microscopic level within the plant cells.”

Q: What conditions are necessary for the Monstera to produce its fruit (“Mexican breadfruit”)?

TH: “This is something that can be a bit tricky. Fruiting is both a response to conditions and the individual plant’s maturity. High light and humidity levels, two factors that would come in the wet season in its original habitat, along with good nutrition (well-fertilized) would induce flowering and fruiting in mature plants. Like most aroids, Monstera are typically fly pollinated, so that would be the other factor in producing a proper fruit.”

Q: What are the ideal sunlight conditions for Monstera as a houseplant?

TH: “Monstera inside the home will prefer moderately bright light but much less than it can take in a greenhouse or tropical environment. Because the humidity level in our homes is dramatically lower than outside generally, the plant is unable to ‘breathe’ as well and less successful at tolerating direct southern or extended exposures. I would recommend an eastern exposure in the home and expect to rotate the plant often to accommodate the positive phototropism it will experience.”

Q: How often should Monstera be watered?

TH: “The age-old question. This is completely dependent on the environment it is in and there is no singular solution outside of getting to know your plant. It doesn’t matter the size, position, exposure, or age, it really comes down to the soil and getting to know what it should feel like. Any houseplant, particularly Monstera, should be looked at like any dog or cat in the home. Sometimes they’re hungry, sometimes they’re not, sometimes they barf, and it’s not always clear why.

With the knowledge that the Monstera is a tropical understory vine that experiences wet and dry seasons, you should expect to water your plant when the soil is dry on the surface and damp, but not wet, one to two inches below the surface. It is very important to allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings as the monstera roots need to have air as much as water. Waterlogged soil is not ‘a rainforest environment’ and will essentially drown the plant from the roots up. The only way to water your plants is to get to know the soil.

I will also mention that I have never found misting this plant's leaves to be beneficial in any way. Misting is not a substitute or supplement to low humidity levels or direct watering.”

Q: Any other advice for a new plant parent who wants their Monstera to thrive?

TH: “So, first: I would say fertilizer is a huge part of this plant’s life. Those big gorgeous leaves suck up a lot of nutrients and can sap the soil’s natural resources quickly. I strictly use Osmocote pelletized fertilizer on my plants. It is a great slow-release fertilizer that is very easy to use indoors and isn’t messy in any way.

And second: Those big gorgeous leaves are also huge dust magnets, which can block light and clog stomata (plant nostrils essentially). My aunt traditionally used a spot of mayonnaise on a paper towel to wipe down all of her houseplants which gave them a glossy sheen. I have used this as well as milk myself without any negative side effects that I could tell, but a bit of warm water would do just as well. The leaves cleaned with water will retain their natural finish, which is typically a matte green or semigloss at best. Few plants are naturally as glossy as you will find mayonnaised plants to be, ha.”